Saturday, 21 May 2011

Original Juan's Pain Is Good Garlic Style

So in my mad rush to make up for the months without posting, I'm going to charge on and post a third review in twenty four hours - the long awaited review for Original Juan's Pain is Good Garlic Style Sauce. Original Juan are a large umbrella group who are also responsible for a line of extract sauces including Da' Bomb, which I have a couple of interesting anecdotes relating to. Another time perhaps.

The Pain is Good brand takes a different tack from extract sauces. It's all made from natural ingredients, and with it's brown paper-y label for it's hip-flask style bottle, it's going for the ol' fashioned quality direction. Nevertheless, with a big pile of Habaneros right at the top of the ingredients list, it still promises quite a punch. I chose the garlic version mostly out of curiosity; for some reason I've always thought of "chilli and garlic" sauces as being the mild variety of sauces, so I was interested at the idea that one would be placed squarely in the "hot" end. (The Pain is Good brand also has a "mild" end, although I can only assume that should be considered a relative term).

Tasting Notes: The sauce is thick and chunky, with plenty of pepper mash and coarsely chopped garlic in there. A sniff gives you a full noseful of that gorgeous smokey Habanero flavour, with the garlic a relatively subtle flavour to it. I remember on my first smell (way back in December) being surprised that there was almost no acid bite to this sauce. This is an interesting approach; vinegar is a staple in many chilli sauces simply as preservative, so it's something of a surprise to come across one without it. Tasting it, again I'm struck by a relative lack of taste in the first instance; there is a little citrus and spice in there but they're not strong. That lovely habanero flavour takes pride of place, supplemented nicely by the smoked garlic. The heat takes a while to kick in, but when it does it really ramps up and leaves you with a nice long, lingering burn, along with that great Habanero taste.

What it's Good For: Well, that's the trick really isn't it? I'm on the verge of calling this a bottle of hot pepper mash rather than a sauce per se, and that's certainly why it's lasted so long (other sauces I'm this effusive about don't tend to hang around, and pretty much everything else I reviewed since Christmas is long since polished off!) Use this as a topping for cheese on toast or pizza? Are you MAD? It tastes so nice though that it's a crying shame to cook out it's lovely flavours - my recommendation is to stir it into freshly cooked pasta sauce just before (or after) serving. Fill out the flavours it lacks with tomatoes, and there's a really kicking meal in here.

Final Thoughts: I really do like this sauce. Of those I've reviewed so far, it probably ranks top - but sadly, it really is let down by the fact that it simply doesn't stand on it's own, and that's something that's actually quite important for me.

The Verdict: a rare treat, but worth every penny.

Scomac Hot Scotch Bonnet Sauce

This is actually an interesting variation from the normal run-of-the-mill sauces that I do, since it's made with a vague attempt at a Scottish twist. Scomac aren't really a name I'd associate with chilli sauces, or sauces of any kind (or... well, anything else for that matter). As far as I can make out they sell packaged seafood and derivative Whisky products - in fact, I strongly suspect the decision to use Scotch Bonnets was driven almost entirely from a desire to make a pun on Scotch Whisky.

Still, my curiosity was piqued, so when I spotted it in a local shop I bought a bottle. I'm a little at a loss as to how to introduce it, because I've not really come across a chilli sauce like this before. It's difficult to avoid comparisons to that great provender of South Yorkshire, Henderson's Relish (roughly similar to Worcestershire Sauce, for those of you who sadly come from other parts of the UK - for those further afield... uh... kind of like sweet and spicy soy sauce?). Like Henderson's (and unlike Worcestershire), it's vegetarian, and... well, I'm not sure I can say much else without breaking into the tasting notes, so we'll crack right on.

Tasting Notes: If you've ever encountered Henderson's Relish, you'll have a good idea what this sauce is like. Watery and pungent, a rich dark brown, it has a sweet, slightly spicy smell to it. Vinegar features heavily, and I think there's some cinnamon in there too. It does however have some texture to it; finely ground spices suspended in the liquid (so remember to give it a good shake before you use it!). Flavour wise it is quite close to Henderson's or Worcestershire sauce, but has a twist of something a bit more exotic to it. Oddly enough, it's not the chilli, but the other spices that give it that touch, and the effect is oddly reminiscent of Chilli Pepper Company's The Beast. The chilli burn is pleasant, but seems to be an afterthought, and there's no chilli flavour at all. Still, this isn't a bad thing, as the sauce has flavour in spades. It has a very slightly bitter aftertaste, a consequence of being heavily laden with spices, but feels a lot less raw than the CPC sauces did. Allegedly the sauce is made with Scotch Whisky and Scotch Whisky Vinegar (both of which I heartily approve of), but if I didn't know they were there I wouldn't be any the wiser. I think I can just detect notes of the Whiskey in the aftertaste, but only because I know it's there.

What it's Good For: Cooking. Pretty much anything you would use Henderson's or Worcestershire for, this sauce will go nicely and add a nice twist. I can see it'd also be a very nice addition to a vinaigrette. I'd be tempted to use it as a condiment (as I do with both tabasco and Henderson's), but it might be a touch too strong for that. You could use a few drops as a topping as well, but it is very runny, so only really worth it as a drop or two.

Final Thoughts: This sauce screams "gimmick". As noted above, the heat is non-specific, which slightly begs the question for why it's named after a specific breed (Scotch bonnets) if it's not either going to showcase their particular flavour, or make better use of their prodigious heat. The answer is simply because they have the word "Scotch" in the name, and I'd go further to say that this is the sole reason they even considered making a hot sauce in the first place. That's not to say that it's bad - it's actually a very nice sauce, and not a style I've ever come across before. But as is the way of gimmicks, I suspect it will fade away and never be seen again.

The Verdict: Surprisingly good condiment-style sauce, but not enough in the way of chilli. Or Whisky, for that matter.

Sainsbury's Peri Peri Sauce

Holy crap, it's May and I haven't written one of these in a third of a year - disgraceful! But with some of my "real" life commitments beginning to recede, I'm going to see if I can't write a handful of sauce revies, since I have a small pile still pending. Rest assured I haven't forgotten that bottle of "Pain is Good" sauce, and a review is coming soon, but I thought I would kick off with a quick review of a little bottle of Peri Peri that I got while I was on holiday, since the bottle is about to run out.

It's a supermarket own-brand sauce, which is generally a bit of a demerit, but if anyone can pull it off I have faith in Sainsbury's (I doubt anyone will ever read these, but if by some miracle someone from outside the UK is reading this, Sainsbury's is towards the "posh" end of the supermarket spectrum, generally catering a bit more to the ethical/organic/foodie crowd). Peri-peri is also one of my favourite styles of chilli, thanks to many happy meals at Nando's, but one that seems surprisingly difficult to get right for a bottled sauce. Even Nando's don't manage it particularily well, although there are a couple of harder-to-find manufacturers (such as the excellent Zulu Zulu and Mama Africa's - the latter sadly lacking a UK importer, which explains why nobody near me stocks it any more). Still, from the minimalist labelling I was kind of expecting this to be more like a cooking ingredient rather than something I'd like to chow into on it's own.

Tasting Notes: The sauce is smooth and opaque, and neither too runny or thick. The smell isn't overwhelming, but it there's a hint of some of the spices in it. There's the faintest touch of sharpness, but it doesn't seem like acid (citrus or otherwise) is a strong player in this sauce. The taste itself is pretty subtle and underwhelming, but it does give clear space for the flavour of the peppers - I just wish there was more to it. I also tend to want peri peri sauces to have a bit more citrus to them, and without it this sauce tastes almost floury. The heat comes on slowly, and has a medium burn about expected from a mainstream supermarket product like this.

What it's Good For: I actually struggle to think. It doesn't particularily stand on it's own, and it's flavour is too subtle to be an ingredient. I've been using it as a secondary sauce added to something else on sandwiches and wraps, and even to some leftover rice, but even as a topping it really needs another sauce to fill in where it's flavours are missing. I guess if you're topping something really strong, it might be okay.

Final Thoughts: Style over substance. The more I think about it, the more I think this sauce has been designed to look right, rather than taste right. I'm convinced I can taste the flour that's been used as a thickener, and the flavours are lacklustre and half hearted. It almost has the opposite problem to the Dilita sauce I reviewed last year, and definitely better than some of the other supermarket own-brand chilli sauces I've tried (I'm looking at you, Tesco).

The Verdict: A poor show, but probably better than Dilita.